 | New vs Old | How Strong are Arborist Bridges
30. 04. 2022 22:22:38
We broke 2 new arborist bridges and 3 old ones from Nick Markley & Hunter Vincent. They all broke super good enough above 23kN which is much stronger than your back. We weren't sure how to pull them but we decided on doing them in a U shape with a barrel knot jammed into quicklinks. If you pulled... |
 | Rappel systems with built in rescue solutions
4. 05. 2022 16:12:42
THIS IS VIDEO 2 OF 10 - See textbook https://www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systemsHere is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyo... |
 | Locking Carabiner Showdown
7. 05. 2022 17:11:42
We broke 8 carabiners in a bracketed system. They all broke above MBS or Minimum Breaking Strength that is printed on the spine of the carabiner. It's fun to watch things break! This video focuses on HMS carabiners or the pear shaped ones and most of that type if not all, are locking carabiners. ... |
 | Rock Exotica Totem vs Camp Ovo vs Butterfly Knot
11. 05. 2022 16:20:12
THIS IS VIDEO 3 OF 10 - See textbook https://www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systemsHere is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyo... |
 | Full Documentary of Lapporten, Sweden 2.1km Long Highline | World's Hardest World Record
14. 05. 2022 15:19:42
We did it! The Lapporten Project by @northernlines_slackline officially got a highline world record at 2130m long (1.3 miles) but it isn't just the length, it was in a really remote location making the rigging quite complex. A full feature film by Pinewood Productions will be aired on Swedish TV a... |
 | Complex rappelling options with double ended rope bags
18. 05. 2022 15:06:05
THIS IS VIDEO 4 OF 10 - See textbook https://www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systemsHere is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyo... |
 | Dicks sells counterfeit Black Diamond climbing rope (allegedly)
21. 05. 2022 15:03:07
Emily and Zach allegedly bought a dynamic Black Diamond rope from Dicks Sporting Goods and what showed up was authentic packaging but not a Black Diamond rope. The rope that they received is likely a static rope from Ali Express which may not be properly certified and is the wrong type of rope to t... |
 | Climbing vs canyon rappelling
25. 05. 2022 14:49:17
THIS IS VIDEO 5 OF 10 - See textbook https://www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systemsHere is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyo... |
 | oil, sunscreen, deet and acid | Contaminated climbing ropes
28. 05. 2022 15:36:59
See our contaminated slackline tests https://youtu.be/Bvr--pT9xcMWe also tested pee! https://youtu.be/X5mMWB1x4hwThe rope broke in the knot between 17-19kN in all samples except the acid where the contaminate actually was the cause of the breakage around 10kN, which was a lot higher than we thought!... |
 | 10 uses for the PaliKoa Pivot Rappel Device
1. 06. 2022 16:17:00
THIS IS VIDEO 6 OF 10 - See textbook https://www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systemsHere is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyo... |
 | - Used Arborist Ropes Break Super Low
4. 06. 2022 16:15:42
Cody Zimmerer gave me 1/2' used arborist ropes that broke at 11kN and 12kN which is super low compared to my 10mm static climbing ropes that break around 18kN. Cory Grossman gave me some new rope of the same type and they broke almost twice as high at 20 and 21kN. Used 3/4' double braided bull run... |
 | Friction Tests on canyon lowering devices
8. 06. 2022 16:45:43
THIS IS VIDEO 7 OF 10 - See textbook https://www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systemsHere is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyo... |
 | Does blow torch work | Replacing Glue In Climbing Bolts
11. 06. 2022 17:22:31
Sometimes bolts get in the way of random swinging hammers. We explored two ways of heating up glue in bolts in an effort to remove them so you can reuse the hole. I'm not convinced this is a good idea. What do you think?... |
 | How much force does it take to RAPPEL in different modes
15. 06. 2022 16:20:22
THIS IS VIDEO 8 OF 10 - See textbook https://www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systemsHere is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyo... |
 | Corroded Caving Carabiners and Hangers Break Tests
18. 06. 2022 19:12:20
Hunter Campbell sent us some old corroded cave gear and we pulled it till it snapped. It's interesting how gear left inside of the earth will get so gnarly. I'd expect that for any non stainless steel, but the aluminum is what is the most interesting. There is also a surprising amount of home ma... |
 | How strong is Petzl 8 descender
22. 06. 2022 16:46:02
THIS IS VIDEO 9 OF 10 - See textbook https://www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systemsHere is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyo... |
 | BIG climber lead falls for science. You won't believe the forces
25. 06. 2022 16:29:52
Tanner is 290lbs or 131kg and he climbs. We wanted to know what forces he gets when he falls on his gear so I sent him 3 LineScale3s and showed him how to film an episode. This was an amazing experiment of a test being done for HowNOT2 without me there. Tanner (https://www.instagram.com/da_blok/)... |
 | EMO vs MMO break tests + stone knot, clove hitch and figure 8
29. 06. 2022 17:01:03
THIS IS VIDEO 10 OF 10 - See textbook https://www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systemsWe tested Munter Mule Overhand and Eight Mule Overhand in this video. Also the stone knot, clove hitch and figure 8 in a commonly used canyon rope to show not only what it breaks at but how they respond to such f... |
 | 12 interviews with the Sweden Lapporten 2.1KM team - What is it like walking HUGE highline
2. 07. 2022 15:46:48
Walking a giant highline is very very different than a highline 300 meters or less. Here are 12 different perspectives from people who cruise to people who only stood up and walked a short distance. Our film about the project turned out very popular with over 100k views and can be found at https:/... |
 | How long can you safely leave permanent slackline set up
6. 07. 2022 16:06:35
How safe is your webbing if you permanently leave it set up. Wade Desai and Marshall Leaver from Steel City Slackers have a perma-line up in west virginia and when they replaced the webbing, Wade sent it to me and I tested it. It had a segment connection in the middle, it was up for 2 full seasons... |
 | What is Search and Rescue - I Got Rescued
13. 07. 2022 15:00:35
King County Explorer Search and Rescue was kind enough to let me film one of their trainings and demoed a lower and raise with me in the litter. SAR systems are fully redundant and have a large safety ratio they stay within. It's interesting to observe how they maintain that the entire time becau... |
 | Does Petzl's Wire Lock locking carabiner hold up to other climbing carabiners
20. 07. 2022 15:59:55
We broke 12 locking carabiners all lined up from weakest to strongest. They did not break in that order though! These carabiners have different gates and we show them to you before breaking them. It's a hybrid between a buying guide and teaching what HMS lockers are and just pure edutainment. I ... |
 | HMPE - Are tapering splices that important in Dyneema
27. 07. 2022 16:13:28
I was just trying to test tapers and how much of a difference it made and then Teufelberger's splice came undone. BLOG HAS MORE DETAILS & DATA https://www.hownot2.com/post/are-tapering-splices-that-important-in-dyneema-hmpe... |
 | Does PURCELL PRUSSIK save you If you fall on an ASCENDER
3. 08. 2022 15:04:04
Does a purcell prusik shock absorb enough as a personal lanyard to prevent an ascender from desheathing a climbing rope if you were to take a short fall while passing an obstacle? A little is the answer but 1/2' ropes are so burly that they won't desheath even with a static sling in our tests. Howe... |
 | Dyneema VS Generic HMPE Soft Shackles
10. 08. 2022 15:29:58
We tested 3 types of soft shackles made with 3 different qualities of Dyneema - 2 samples each. The 3 qualities were generic HMPE, low quality name brand and the best stuff on the market.Samson Amsteel Blue Sk75 - https://tinyurl.com/mr3zvsa6... |
 | are the bunny ears actually redundant | Super 8 Knot
17. 08. 2022 15:47:37
Is the super 8 or double figure of 8 redundant if one eye fails? ABOK 1085 names it Double Figure of 8. We show how to tie the bunny ears then pull it to 4kn and 9kn to see if we can untie it. Some knots are impossible to untie, and some are very easy to untie after being pulled. This was pretty ... |
 | How strong is 'synthetic rope' (HMPE) on Ebay & Amazon | Dyneema vs Chineema
24. 08. 2022 15:00:18
Dyneema or HPME comes in all sorts of qualities labeled as SK this or SK that. What do they mean and how much do they affect strength. We also test generic HMPE that I joke is chineema and is sold on ebay and amazon because a lot of us wonder how good that stuff is. Strength isn't the only factor... |
 | Cave Anchors Made Out Of Dyneema
31. 08. 2022 14:59:53
Bobby and John broke some cave anchors. They tested the Climbing Technology's Soft Anchors and also the homemade ones by Andrzej Rudkowski. CT dyneema broke at 14kn and rethreaded with Max sk99 4mm broke at 16kn and in tension broke at 11kn.... |
 | A 9 month project is now released - 6 Year Anniversary
5. 09. 2022 14:59:54
I redesigned our entire website from scratch and coded a 3 layer filter to organize our 400 episodes which are (soon) all in written form. We have 3 courses live and our 4th course is coming out in 2 days. I've been doing this for 6 years now and it's amazing to see how far it has come but we got ... |
 | Planning For El Capitan | Big Wall Bible
7. 09. 2022 14:59:49
Big Wall Bible #1 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comThe number one thing that can cause you to bail and fail on a big wall is poor planning, getting late starts from difficult Yosemite logistics, bad weather, or bad partners. This is definitely NOT why you are stoked for this course but it is 100% the... |
 | 12 Essentials You Need To Climb Big Walls
14. 09. 2022 15:52:01
Big Wall Bible #2 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comI know you are excited to get on the rock but you have a LOT of prep ahead of you in order to live in a vertical world for several days. This is your 2nd NON-SEXY big wall topic but if you get this wrong, you're coming down early. ... |
 | Packing Haul Bags for Big Walling
21. 09. 2022 15:31:33
Big Wall Bible #3 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comYou have 1 bag with 1 compartment, how are you going to pack it? Haul bags are not like other backpacks so it's worth spending a chapter and showing you how to connect it, get into it, put the straps away and pack everything into it.... |
 | How to Sleep on Cliff and Poop in Bag
28. 09. 2022 14:23:46
Big Wall Bible #4 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comExisting in a vertical world is an art and honestly one of the coolest forms of camping. But you don't know what you don't know if you haven't done it, so hopefully, this will tell you what you don't know. The idea is to practice everything at home ... |
 | Cams, Nuts & Hooks | My Big Wall Rack
5. 10. 2022 14:59:48
Big Wall Bible #5 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comWhat gear do you need to lead while aid climbing? A whole lot! We'll show you our racks if you show us yours. WHAT do we carry and WHY and HOW.... |
 | How much force can $390 climbing bolt remover pull
8. 10. 2022 18:37:14
I modified the bolt buster tension tester to test how much force the YABR (Yet Another Bolt Remover) can generate and it's a lot. It broke the bolt but I was twisting hard at 23.82kN or 5,354lbf! This is why you have to score, or aggressively spin, a bolt before pulling so the wedge doesn't get en... |
 | Hooking and Nutting | Aid Climbing
12. 10. 2022 14:59:51
Big Wall Bible #6 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comHow do you place all that gear you are carrying? Do you need to have a trad climbing background where you already know how to place cams and nuts? It helps, but isn't that necessary since you rarely fall on the gear and therefore don't actually know ... |
 | Testing Climbing Cams AT BLACK DIAMOND'S LAB - C4 vs Ultralights
15. 10. 2022 14:59:54
We drop-tested and slow-pulled old cams donated by Timothy Neidmeyer, Bobby Hutton and Eric Nies. The ultralights were purchased in 2017 and were in a house fire where they got smoke and water damage which is why they are all rusty. The ultralights are 25% lighter than the latest C4s and one weigh... |
 | 15 Knots You Need to Big Wall
19. 10. 2022 15:07:39
Big Wall Bible #7 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comIt's 'knot' that hard to learn how to twist your rope in all the ways you need to go up a wall. This ties together a foundation for the next chapters so we can just show you what to do without getting stuck on knot basics. Knots are actually quite e... |
 | Watch this before climbing in Tonsai
22. 10. 2022 15:33:58
Tonsai, Krabi Thailand is a climbing mecca and has beautiful and unique climbing. The overhanging limestone cliffs remind me of an outdoor cave without mud. Here is some beta if you are planning to go there I hope makes your trip easier for planning.... |
 | How to Lead | Aid Climbing Big Walls
26. 10. 2022 15:42:40
Big Wall #8 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comLeading is a methodical and repetitive motion if done correctly. Get as high as you can on your aiders, place your gear, bounce test it, commit to it, get off your last piece and clip your rope to it or back clean it, and repeat. Fear or exhaustion can ma... |
 | - How did this happen?
29. 10. 2022 16:12:24
How strong are ice screws? Plenty strong enough, but the question is more about how strong is the ice. We did 9 tests in this video and found the aluminum hangers on the Petzl Laser Speed breaks at 14kN, long 21cm screws are stronger than a carabiner, and of course that screws in tension hold bett... |
 | How do women pee and manage periods while climbing
5. 11. 2022 16:08:02
A woman emailed me and asked how women pee and manage periods while climbing. Since I'm not an expert at that, I found a volunteer. We tried to make this video fun but also helpful. Enjoy learning more about pee funnels than you probably wanted to. ... |
 | November 2022 Updates
7. 11. 2022 21:05:16
Lots of stuff going on, it's been a while since I had a monday update video.Go to https://www.ggby.org/More than halfway to our 1000 Patron goal, help us get there please! https://www.patreon.com/howNOTtoHighline... |
 | Hauling Giant Big Wall Bags up El Capitan
9. 11. 2022 15:48:48
Big Wall #10 of 14Hauling can be a nightmare, or just a chore depending how you do it and if you stay organized. Keep it simple applies here as well. Jumping straight to a 2:1 or worse a 3:1 (which needs a redirect) may not give you much advantage but add 2x or 3x the amount of work to get the bag... |
 | You need to know this before using the Alpine Butterfly Knot
12. 11. 2022 14:59:48
Alpine butterfly knot is a midline knot that is easy to untie after it has been loaded. The problem with knots that are easy to untie, is they untie easy. We discovered while pull testing this that it slips, though at fairly high forces. We also discovered that if you tie it slightly wrong, it st... |
 | Ascending Up Big Walls
16. 11. 2022 14:59:53
Big Wall #11 of 14'Following' up after our leading episode, we show you from your partner yelling 'off belay', releasing the bag, cleaning up the anchor and ascending the rope with a few easy lower out examples when the gear isn't plumb below the anchor. You get two demonstrations to see what's dif... |
 | I nailed climbing ROPE to WOOD
19. 11. 2022 14:33:54
Here is a funsies video of something I found on instagram. I didn't milk it, i nailed it! Do you like short and sweet fun videos? Extreme Gear https://www.extremegear.org/ 10% off Rocky Talkie by clicking https://www.rockytalkie.com/HowNOT2... |
 | Getting down from Big Walls is dangerous
23. 11. 2022 14:59:48
Video #12 of 14Leading may appear to be the riskiest part of climbing and give you the most adrenaline but rappelling potentially causes many more deaths. In mountaineering, how many times have you heard of people summiting only to die on the way down. When you get to the top, you are only half do... |
 | We couldn't break it
26. 11. 2022 14:59:57
How strong are V threads? The rope in a loop is going to be strong enough to catch any whipper and be a 10:1 safety ratio to rappel on. The real question is more about how strong is the ice. We did 5 tests in this video and found the 6mm and 7mm ropes break when installing them with 21cm screws b... |
 | Aid climbing roofs is harder than you think
30. 11. 2022 14:59:48
Big Wall #13 of 14Here is a real-ish life example of the hardest part people struggle with, including people struggling so you may be convinced to go practice this before having to do this for real on a wall. ... |